If you’re tackling acne at home, there are a few key elements your skincare routine must include. First, a quality acne-fighting face wash is essential to remove dirt, oil, and bacteria. Second, a retinol cream for nighttime use can help promote cell turnover. Finally, you’ll want to integrate salicylic acid into your routine. This powerhouse beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) can deeply cleanse pores and is renowned for its ability to keep skin clear.
But salicylic acid isn’t just a one-trick ingredient. Beyond fighting acne, it also treats a range of other skin conditions, making it a versatile addition to your skincare arsenal. To help you understand how to use it effectively, we’ve consulted two dermatologists for insights.
What Is Salicylic Acid?
Salicylic acid is a type of beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) commonly used in skincare for its exfoliating properties. Unlike alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are water-soluble, BHAs are oil-soluble. This means salicylic acid can penetrate deep into the skin to dissolve oil and debris, making it highly effective for treating acne and oily skin.
Dr. Maya Thosani, a double-board-certified dermatologist, explains, “Salicylic acid is a topical medication used to treat acne and various other conditions, such as warts and psoriasis.” Since it’s widely available in over-the-counter (OTC) products, prescription-strength salicylic acid is rarely needed for acne. However, higher concentrations are sometimes used in medicated shampoos or wart treatments.
How Does Salicylic Acid Work?
Salicylic acid’s ability to penetrate oil makes it especially useful for clearing clogged pores, one of the main causes of acne. Dr. Mina Amin, a board-certified dermatologist, adds, “It breaks up sebum—a combination of dead skin and oil—to unclog pores. It’s also anti-inflammatory, which helps reduce redness and swelling associated with acne.”
While it’s most known for treating acne, salicylic acid has other notable benefits:
- Fights acne: Salicylic acid is particularly effective for comedonal acne, such as blackheads and whiteheads, as it removes the buildup of oil and debris in pores.
- Treats warts: For warts caused by the human papillomavirus (HPV), salicylic acid products with higher concentrations (17–40%) can help peel away the wart over time.
- Controls oil: Its oil-regulating properties make it a staple for managing oily skin.
- Improves keratosis pilaris (KP): Salicylic acid exfoliates dry, scaly patches caused by keratin buildup in hair follicles, improving the texture of bumpy skin.
- Manages psoriasis: It helps reduce scaling and inflammation in plaque psoriasis by breaking down thickened skin.
- Reduces dandruff: Salicylic acid shampoos can minimize flaking and regulate excess sebum on the scalp.
Can Salicylic Acid Help with Dark Spots?
Although salicylic acid isn’t primarily used for hyperpigmentation, it can help prevent and reduce post-inflammatory dark spots when treating acne. “Salicylic acid peels not only help with breakouts but can also prevent hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Thosani. However, overuse may cause irritation or dark spots, especially on darker skin tones. For this reason, it’s crucial to use it sparingly and under professional guidance.
How to Incorporate Salicylic Acid into Your Routine
Salicylic acid is commonly found in cleansers, toners, and serums. Each type of product serves a slightly different purpose:
- Cleansers: These are great for washing away impurities and are typically used once a day, either in the morning or evening. Wet your face, apply the cleanser, and massage it gently for 30 seconds before rinsing thoroughly.
- Toners: After cleansing, apply a salicylic acid toner with a cotton pad, avoiding the eye area. Toners are best used at night to prepare the skin for serums or moisturizers.
- Serums: For a more concentrated treatment, apply a salicylic acid serum after cleansing and toning. Use a few drops and press it gently into the skin, allowing it to absorb before applying moisturizer.
Tips for Safe Use
Since salicylic acid is an active ingredient, it can sometimes irritate the skin, especially for first-time users. Dr. Thosani recommends starting with one or two applications per week and gradually increasing usage as your skin adjusts.
Be cautious when pairing salicylic acid with other active ingredients. Avoid combining it with retinoids, as this can lead to increased sensitivity. Similarly, using it alongside AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid may cause over-exfoliation.
On the other hand, salicylic acid pairs well with hydrating and soothing ingredients like:
- Hyaluronic acid: Helps counteract dryness caused by salicylic acid.
- Niacinamide: Reduces irritation and redness.
- Peptides: Supports the skin’s barrier function.
Choosing the Right Concentration
When shopping for salicylic acid products, pay attention to concentration levels:
- Acne treatments: Cleansers, toners, and serums typically contain 0.5–2% salicylic acid. Higher concentrations are ideal for spot treatments.
- Psoriasis and dandruff: Medicated shampoos and creams may contain around 3% salicylic acid.
- Wart treatments: Products designed for warts can contain up to 40%.
Final Thoughts
Salicylic acid is a powerful ingredient for addressing acne, oiliness, and various skin conditions. With proper use, it can help you achieve clearer, healthier skin. Start slow, choose the right concentration for your needs, and consult a dermatologist if you’re unsure about how to incorporate it into your routine.
By understanding how to use this versatile ingredient, you’ll be on your way to a more effective and balanced skincare regimen.